Lacoste Holiday Artist Series 2010...

Li Xiaofeng x Lacoste

Top - One of a kind, handmade porcelain shards. Bottom - Limited edition polo.

Paris Favorites...

The Best...

Balenciaga

Basically this collection satisfied my two most basic desires from clothes; simplicity and a shrunken fit. Love the hand painted zebra prints, which will be exclusive to the new menswear store in Paris. And yes, I have already taken the leather cummerbund idea from this show out for a spin, much to my delight. 

Dries Van Noten

Two thoughts on this show 1) acid wash has never looked better 2) looking like you stole a shirt and burst the security ink tag all over it never looked better. 

Kenzo

More than the clothes, I loved that some notable women walked the runway next to the men... in the mens clothes. Androgyny is one of my favorite things that fashion can address; in extreme forms like Rad Hourani, or more mundane displays like this one. 

And because pictures would just hurt my eyes (you can click the links to view the pictures if you must).

The worst...

Givenchy

There was only two looks that I liked. The rest was fit for a modern, devout Catholic version of Tarzan, who was abducted by aliens. You'll get that reference if you see it.

Dior Homme

 I say it every season. It is basically an extension of Kris Van Assche's own line at this point. 

Rick Owens

The first half was great, (with a bunch of great edgy tailored jackets) and then came the fog... Next thing I know the models are walking out in Do-rags and the draped leather boots, a Owens signature that I am not to fond of. 

JPG Does YSL...

With a distinctive Marrakech theme, thick rimmed glasses, and one androgynously dressed female, I couldn't help but think of a young Yves Saint Laurent and Betty Catroux. 

The photograph that I am mentally referencing for this is Betty in Le Smoking and Yves in a tunic lounging in his Marrakech garden. It is in the book "The Beautiful Fall" but I can't find it online at all. Since I am too lazy to haul out my scanner, crop the image down, and share it with y'all, this picture will have to do. 

DIY Day...

Four hours of work vs. four figures spent? 

Mulberry x Target...

I'm not so secretly screaming on the inside right now. Between October 10th and December 24th, Target and Mulberry will be teaming up for what I hope will be an amazing collaboration. Mulberry said they will not be using their own bags for collaboration, but that they may be inspired by some of them. If that inspiration comes from the Alexa, Bayswater, or Piccadilly, then those bags better be coming my way. This will be the one time I will be actually sad to be away from a Target store, since I will be in Paris. Hopefully my family will catch a hint if I actually like any of the bags, and run out the day they go on sale to get me some. Christmas in Paris + Mulberry for Target = A very happy me. 

Hermes On The Cheap...

About three years ago I came to the conclusion that my life was not complete until I somehow acquired an Hermes Collier de Chien. You know, that big chunky leather bracelet covered in studs that would look oh so right sitting on my wrist. It would be that one item that I would never take off, and you would always know it was me in a crowd by that shiny piece of alligator (ok, maybe that is pushing it, but if you are going to aim high, minus well aim a little further). 

Oh well, one day. Maybe I will venture into a high end vintage shop and see if I can find one second hand until that wonderful day comes that I can afford a new one... and a matching Birkin... Hey, I'm aiming high, like I said. What's an extra $10,000 for a bag when you are spending $1,000 on a bracelet?! 

Anyways, I stumbled upon the most amazing fashion fix I have seen in a long while, and something that I will be spending all day tomorrow working on... ready?!...

I KNOW! Official Hermes patterns to make your very own paper Collier de Chiens! I'm thinking I will start out with some in vellum, then maybe try it with real leather and resin. Then I got a little obsessive at reading about these that I came across...

DIY Kelly Bags! Hermes was reading my mind before my mind even knew what it wanted! I'm going to be a busy boy this next week. The house will be turned into a mini Hermes workshop  during the day. 

And in the style of that Vogue Nippon segment "High Low", we got the low, now for the high...

Hermes footstool ($5,950.00), armchair ($10,200.00), and console ($7,200.00). These would be perfect in that room in my future house that I will devote to my future collection of Hermes that I know I will have. 

Burberry Goes Punk...

I know I complained recently about Christopher Bailey not changing it up enough at Burberry Prorsum, with his multi season run of shearling aviators, but his latest venture at the house more than makes up for it. It reminded me a lot of Slimane era Dior Homme; influenced by music, highly subversive, and undeniably young. It went against the direction that menswear is taking these days, just when we thought we were out of the studded leather woods, out comes more "it" items that will be sure to make their rounds on the street style blogs. Most exciting to me was the bag in the bottom right ($3,500). And because Burberry knows these items are going to be hot, like last season, the jackets and bags are already on pre-sale through their website, so you can get it in your closet by mid August (6 months before they would normally hit the stores). Nothing here was too ground breaking though, but menswear never is. You could easily make mental references to all the items shown; sandals that were the love child of Balenciaga and Birkenstock, jackets that look a whole lot like Rick Owens work, and the leather motorcycle pants that I could swear came right off a Balmain runway. What made all these items different from the crowd though was the styling of the looks, and the distinct Burberry touches that Christopher does so well. His vision is unique to Great Britain, and you could instantly tell when the models started walking out in wellingtons (I told you mom, boys can wear Hunter boots too! Just incase the Thimister S/S 2010 Couture show didn't prove it to you.) If this collection has any key trends in it, I'm sure we will be in for another dark spring next year. Another year of summer blacks? I won't complain. The leather on the other hand might be a bit hot and sticky for my wardrobe. 

Haider for Men...

All I can say is it's about time.

Let's Talk About Raf...

... at Jil...

There was a lot of hype about Raf Simons latest collection for Jil Sander, and it was well deserved. As the light dimmed and the 80's techno blarred you knew you were in for a treat. Every look, with the exception of a few black suits (no Jil Sander show is complete without them) was packed full of color. Raf had said he was looking to nature this time around, which explained the floral motifs used, garden setting, and color palette that comes from only the brightest flowers. The fluoro colors were not just limited to the clothes though; the bottoms of the shoes were made in colors that matched the outfits being worn. It was like the menswear equivalent of the YSL F/W 2008 Tributes. It was a refreshing touch that makes the shoes stand out in a good way, something difficult to do in a part of the fashion world not keen on risks. Of course Raf Simons is not one to play it safe. While hemlines on the women's scene are lowering to the floor, men's are slowly creeping up, and Raf took them to uncharted territory. Worn with jumpers and t-shirts, they provided a sliver of color: worn with blazers, they were not visible. Other notable aspects of the show were reflective tape trim used on suits, again, that unexpected detail that makes Raf's clothes stand out. A small variety of prints (floral and stripped) were also notable, as prints of any type are a somewhat foreign concept to the Jil Sander brand. Raf has been talking a lot as of late about the future of Jil Sander. With the hard job of taking on a brand after it's namesake, Raf has certainly moved it away from its stark minimalism roots, and given  the next designer a lot more to work with. Lets just hope that next designer doesn't come any time soon. 

RIP Tom Nicon...

At 22, Tom Nicon had done a lot in the world of modeling. A frequent face at major fashion houses such as Louis Vuitton, Gareth Pugh, Yves Saint Laurent, and Burberry just to name a few. He had shown up to his fitting at Versace this morning, and was later found dead after falling out of his hotel window. I suspect a number of tributes will be made, as we are right in between Pitti Uomo and Milan Menswear Week, and he was a frequent face in the shows. He was one of my favorite male models and will be missed. 

Pages from the Burberry Brit 2010 lookbook 

Vertebrae Part 2...

Givenchy Resort 2011 

Ricardo Tisci does no wrong in the jewelry department. Season after season my mouth is watering for his dark and religious jewelry. I was hooked when I first saw those piles of cross necklaces from his F/W 2008 show, then came the crown of thorn necklaces in his F/W 2010 menswear show, and now this?! 

Utilitarian...

Celine

Five seasons in, and you would think Pheobe Philo would show signs of slowing down? F/W and S/S seem to be Pheobe's playground to test out a variety of ideas, and during the off seasons she puts out strong, well edited collections. Her clothes and accessories at Celine are flying off the shelves and influencing the entire fashion community; she proved with this collection that that will still be happening for a little more time. And... can I please, please, please get that army green coat? I could have swore it had my name written all over the inside. 

Reed Krakoff

Reed is really making me excited about New York fashion, and coming from a resort collection that's saying a lot! His fantastic work at Coach over the years has lead to some really amazing accessories at his own line. I'll have to introduce his line to my mother when it hits stores in a few months. She is a Coach fanatic, but I know she will love Reed's independent work even more. There was so much that I loved about this collection; the tailoring, mini skirts, apron dresses, and the shoes. 

The Row

The Olsen sisters are shaping up to be some of my favorite New York designers with their uber-lux (they use exotic skins like it is an everyday fabric) and simple designs. I love how they play with unusual proportions in their latest outing. The long skirt lengths play with the trend of below the knee hem lines, but take it a bit lower than what most designers are doing. It's really refreshing if you ask me. 

Gone Before The Going Going...

Daphne Guinness, Isabella Blow

Since it was announced that the late Isabella Blows wardrobe would be auctioned off at Christies in September, people have been wondering if what will happen. Would it be sold off piece by piece? Split between a few buyers? Or would somebody step in and buy the entire lot? The reason this is such a big question is because Blow's wardrobe is undoubtedly one of the greatest collections of rare designer pieces, rivaling those of her friends Anna Piaggi and Daphne Guinness. She was a visionary stylist and magazine editor with a undeniable eye for new talent; Designers Philip Treacy and Alexander McQueen, fashion photographer Indrani, and models Stella Tennant and Sophie Dahl. It was Blow who famously bought Alexander McQueens entire debut collection for 5,000 pounds. As soon as I heard about the auction, I hoped that it would stay in one piece, but who would buy it? The only person I could think of was Blow's close friend, and fellow fashion icon, Daphne Guinness. Then yesterday, Christies announced that the auction had been called off, as an private buyer had purchased the entire lot of over 50 Philip Treacy hats, 90 outfits, and countless pictures of Blow taken by famous photographers. WWD claims to have reliable sources that name Guinness as the buyer, although she has yet to confirm this. I'm just happy that the collection found a home in one piece, and even happier that the buyer is someone who will certainly take care of it. Christies still plans on releasing the catalogue in September, so I will be excited to get my hands on that just to see what treasures Isabella Blow had. 

Mod...

There has been a lot of talk lately about fashion and it's search for "new", or in the case of recent discussions its lack of newness. There seems to be an overall decline in innovation within fashion, and the recent death of McQueen did not help the matters. Even the sacred house of Balenciaga has been at a standstill; three seasons of the same pastel sack dresses? Sure, some designers still are pushing boundaries, but more often than not their efforts fall short of expectations. I remember when I first started taking note of fashion, it was a horribly exciting time with so much going on. John Galliano was putting on extravagant shows that appropriated every cultural and historical reference he could get ahold of. Hussein Chalayan was toying with notions of transportation and time (who can forget his S/S 2007 collection with the clothes that literally transformed themselves?). Stefano Pilati took hold of YSL and put out show after show of a singular androgynous vision of a super chic modern woman. Hedi Slimane pushed menswear into the underground electro scene of Berlin, and changed the way that an entire generation dressed. And there was Alexander McQueen, constantly examining himself and putting everything he had into his shows. I could go on and on about these designers that inspired me back then, and I could go on and on now about how they seem to have succumb to the system of the fashion world. All of this has been on my mind for some time, but it was not until I revisited some of the earlier Resort shows this season that I felt like saying something. 

John Galliano at Christian Dior; notice any similarities? His A/W 2005 show (left, 2011 Resort right) was a break through for the designer at Dior. Gone were the shows that tossed all his references into a single look, a style that was very much "everything and the kitchen sink". John had looked to 60's mod culture and showed a new level of refinement for himself. The clothes referenced the past, but felt more modern than mod. Since then, our bad boy of british fashion has settled down, stuck in a 60's pigeon hole, continuing to hone in on a period of time and refine it to the point where it becomes more costume than fashion. Sure the clothes are beautiful and certainly well made, but season after season it all looks the same. Even his own line is starting to get repetitive. I can't even imagine the pressure that he has from designing upwards of 16 collections each year, but that is the job description. So I don't really know what else to say about him, maybe the amount of work has caused him to refine his style in search of perfection each season. But what about other designers? Don't get me wrong, I LOVE Laura and Kate Mulleavy, the girls behind Rodarte, but their fantastic (and they really are) draped dresses that incorporate every material imaginable, start to feel stale when they are shown season after season. When they started out they incorporated all sorts of clothes into the shows with only a few signature dresses and knits at the end. Each season, the amount of signatures increased. Now, they are the show. The thing is, they are not an isolated case of mundanity. Everywhere designers have fallen back to "classics", and look upon their design past to design for the future. One of my favorite quotes comes from Oscar Wilde - Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - I think what he said was as true today as it was when he wrote it. I think as fashion designers it is our job to be innovative and forward thinking. Without those two things, Fashion design turns into costume design. 

I have been asked what separates personal style from being fashionable. My answer was that fashion changes, style remains the same. You can be entirely fashionable if you wish, and your look will change season after season, more often than not these people turn into victims of fashion. There are also people that are incredibly stylish, and their look will stay the same no matter what the present fashions are. Of course there are many people who have both, they follow fashion and stay with the times, but they have certain constants that make them who they are. I think the same answer can be applied to the difference between fashion design and costume design. John Galliano at Dior, in my opinion, is quickly falling into the realm of costume design, season after season it is the same colors, ideas, and 60's inspiration. The girls at Rodarte, they are that middle ground only because each collection reference entirely different things, and they remain separate from each other. While their draped dresses and knits are the collection, each seasons style changes drastically. Post apocalyptic one season, Mexican boarder towns the next. There are a lot of new designers out there pushing boundaries, but many established people are either toning their work down, refining those "classics", or they leave their post for various reasons (Olivier Theyskens, Martin Margiela?). I just think the fashion world needs a good injection of inspiration, a pep talk, or something to get the wheels rolling again. I miss that excitement that got me interesting in fashion in the first place. Thanks for staying with me if you have gotten this far. This was just something that I had been thinking about for some time now. And John... You better work! 

Vertebrae...

Dsquared2 Skeleton shoes through the eyes of Tommy Ton of Jak&Jil, Bryanboy, and Jane Aldridge respectively. These go up there right next to the YSL Tibute boot as my favorite shoes. 

Fashion + Function...

Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton

Well, there has been another spotting of glasses on chains at Louis Vuitton. This trend has quickly jumped to the top of my to do list for the season. Not only will this slowly expand my dismal accessories department, but it will solve a problem that has plagued me for some time; what to do with the sunnies when you don't want to wear them, but you don't want to put them away?! Usually I just hang them from my shirt, which usually ends in me dropping them on the floor, or having them fall off without me knowing, only to be in a panic stricken mode until I find them. I'm starting to see a problem with this trend though, fashionable finds are few and far between. Most are of the etsy/crafty persons variety; cute little dragonfly beads strung in between imitation swarovski crystals. Not my cup of tea. 

I'm thinking perhaps a simple tortoise chain would be a good way to test the waters. Classic, simple, and they go with just about anything. I'm also loving the idea of making some diy ones out of jade to add that pop of color that my wardrobe sometimes lacks. I'll keep everyone posted on how this progresses. 

More Resort/Cruise/Whatever-you-want-to-call-it...

I must say I really enjoy the new format that the Resort collections have taken. Thanks to the CFDA, the resort shows have turned into an extended fashion week of sorts. I get antsy really quickly so the old trickle format really bothered me a lot. I hated that down time between the Fall and Spring shows when nothing really happened except that ever week or so someone else would show their resort collection. It never really made sense to me. Why, when Resort and Pre-Fall sit in stores the longest, and make up a majority of a designers sales, would there be such a lack of focus on the presentations? I think Anna and others at the CFDA are finally trying to do something about that, and it is really paying off. Designers too seem to be noticing this change, and they are putting out what overall looks like better designed clothing. Before, I tended to like everything that came out of resort, because the designers played it safe and everything seemed to be made to be commercially viable. Now, there are some collections I like, some I love, and some I just downright dislike, all of which show that more risk is being taken on the designers part. 

Of course, no collection is complete without the accessories. I must admit, with the exception of sunglasses, accessories are not my forte; I am a blazer and t-shirt type of guy. I am slowly trying to change that with a few hats and bracelets at a time. This resort season might just be the season to change all of that. Everywhere I look I am finding inspiring ideas that make me want to pile on the accessories. 

Balenciaga 

The blue and white is right up my alley. I can't even begin to describe how much I want that bag the next time I go to the beach. My shoulder is longing for it to be casually draped across it. Like I said, sunglasses are a strong suit of mine when it comes to accessories, and these make me want to step up my game. I've dabbled in the whole chain thing before, but it was always the tacky children ones in neon colors. Playful, yes. Good on wayfarers, yes. Sophisticated, oh no they are not. I'm just crossing my fingers that the Balenciaga chain comes on different glasses (that shape is not good for my face), or that they release it on its own. 

Michael Kors

Those that go shopping with me know that I can't resist anything sequin or ombre. The scarf strap is unexpected and seems so perfect for that bag. The agate necklace seems casual and earthy. The rope chain helps acts in the same way the scarf strap does; it takes an object that could be too precious, and makes it more accessible. It is a good idea, and something that I will be incorporating more of into my wardrobe. 

Missoni

More beachwear. But, I guess this all hits stores mid winter, before I even can fathom laying on a boat, It will have to be a way to spice up that all black wardrobe that I pull out once September hits. Maybe it is because it is Missoni, but pattern is something I might try to work in more with my color blocking. 

Yves Saint Laurent

If this collection taught me anything, it is to look for unusual colors. On a bag, peaking out of cork, or even on your nails; the one way I will not be trying it. 

Although I will probably be trying to convince all my friends to run out and buy buy buy the new YSL nail colors. It's my way of living out nail fantasies vicariously through friends. Just like when Chanel put out that jade color with their Fall 2009 collection. 

All images from WWD, with the exception of the nails, which is from Vogue Paris

Let's Get... MINIMAL... MINIMAL...

New York designers seem to be feeling clean lines and monochromatic color palettes for the 2011 cruise season, and I could not be happier...

Alexander Wang

Donna Karan

Helmut Lang

Michael Kors

Narciso Rodriguez

Summer in Siki...

Happy (early) birthday to me! What did I get you may ask? Well, an extension of my Helmut Lang collection, that's what! Siki Im was the head of design at my beloved Lang for some years, so it is no wonder his clothes appeal to me. That, or the fact that he is German, and has a background in architecture. I have always been interested in that Germanic aesthetic; stark, structured, and monochromatic, hence why his nationality is somewhat important. Anyways, I'm now the very proud owner of some Siki...

The wide pants in look 02, and...

... The blazer vest from look 11 from his debut S/S 2010 collection. 

The wide pants are quite remarkable, they are full of curved seams all along the back, and balloon at the knees/taper at the ankles, all without pleats. Something I thought was interesting since so often with mens trousers pleats are the primary means of achieving volume. As for the vest, it is just amazing, and will be put to work this summer. I love blazers and white t's, and this blazer vest makes the look work when we start to get into higher temps here. I rocked this look for the first time this week at my roommate of 2 years' wedding, with a Helmut Lang (what else would you expect?!) white poplin dress shirt. It was far less attention getting that the silver encrusted Libertine number I wore to my cousins wedding last October. 

Southern Charm...

Alexander Wang Resort 2010

What happens when you take a tride and true city boy and give him some inspiration via plantations and suburbs? Well, a darn good Resort Collection, that's what. I'm kinda crazy about those asymmetrical pleated shorts, and the whole crew socks with sandals idea; I get a major American tourist vibe that I will definitely need to try this summer. Fashion faux pas here I come!