Narciso Rodriguez
It was the 1990's done for the 2010's; minimalistic and provocative. Perhaps the appeal for this collection came from the nostalgic feeling they gave me. The 90's were the first decade that I can clearly remember, and revisiting that time through such an influential person for the period was certainly special. The spaghetti straps were an especially fresh and thoughtful touch for gowns that flowed around the body.
Bottega Veneta
Tomas Maier's simple formula of pairing comfortable clothes with the most luxurious fabrics is still a winner in my books. The clothes are appealing on their own simply for their easy to wear shapes, but the fine details in fabric choices make the pieces so desirable; case and point the beautifully cut vest done in an inky black crocodile, or the double breasted linen jacket.
Jil Sander
There was a wonderfully strange juxtaposition going on at Jil Sander this season; Couture shapes and minimalism. The two ideas are near polar opposites, but Raf Simons merged the two perfectly. The opening looks of white t-shirts and floor length skirts done with couture volumes were done so well I was sold right then and there. Raf picked up on the winning color palette of his recent menswear collection, based on the bright bold colors of a garden, which was a much needed burst of color in what will certainly be a summer of white.
Haider Ackermann
Love Me Tender started blaring on the speakers as the show started. I knew right there and then what would come out of Haider Ackermann's spring outing would be an emotional and powerful tour de force for the designer. The twists and curls of his signature leather and satin gracefully wrapped around the clothes, some of which seemed to be held in place by the magic of the moment; fashion tape would certainly be needed in real life situations to avoid any wardrobe malfunctions... you could ask Janet Jackson about those... she was in the front row. While black is usually the prominent color of an Ackermann collection, the splashes of bold color were what stole this show. It was poetic, exotic, sensual, and by far one of the best Haider Ackermann shows to date.
Lanvin
A more minimal Lanvin, could you ask for anything more? I love how everyone is talking about the flats at the show. Evening gowns with flats, workwear with flats, swimwear with flats, Alber is a genius who clearly knows a woman! Oh how wrong you are fashion folk, Alber sent them all down in the worlds highest stilettos that the girls tore off in the rehearsals and refused to walk in. Less of a styling choice, and more as a safety one.
Rick Owens
What made this Rick Owens collection so amazing was the wearability of the garments. Most Rick Owens collections are strong in Rick's singular, and often very harsh, vision. Here, he moved beyond that, and provided clothes that could be seen on anybody. They were short, long, strapless, or with full sleeves. He provided endless options to be worn for any occasion. You could envision these clothes on a red carpet as easily as on the street. He opened up his world not only to his usual dark customer, but to everyone. Be ready to see a lot more Rick come spring, as this is a collection to be remembered and talked about for some time.
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