Rick Owens... The Book...

What supposedly is an incredibly large and heavy (10.6 lbs) book written by and about one of my favorite designers, Rick Owens, has just been published. Needless to say, I'm categorizing this under "NEEDS! CAN'T LIVE WITHOUT! HIGHEST PRIORITY ON MY LIST OF NECESSITIES!" For anyone looking for that perfect mid-october or Halloween gift for me, I'll be kind enough to provide the amazon link to it here. Thank you in advance. 

à bout de souffle...

It was once said that Haider Ackermann makes women cry. I'd like to expand that to Haider Ackermann makes everyone cry. I would be lying if I said I didn't shed a tear at his S/S 2011 show, or got choked up at his F/W 2011 outing. To see Haider's work on the runway is a spectacular moment; the pace, the styling, the music, the clothes, everything works together in perfect harmony. Haider has said he puts all his heart and soul into each collection, that the show is all his emotion put out there. It is an interesting philosophy to design, to make clothes with such emotion, but for him it works so perfectly and you can feel the raw emotive quality each garment has. And while his shows in person are one thing, the way they photograph is something completely different. You can stop and look, examine the obsessive ways he makes leather and silk twist and turn into shapes so new, so original, that it you really can't argue that what he makes is art. And while the wearability of his designs is debatable, there is no question that what he creates is some of the most consistently aesthetically pleasing work being made in fashion today. I introduced a close friend of mine to his clothes after the last F/W show. She is an enigma to me, the only person in the industry I know that truly knows nothing of what else is going on in fashion. While browsing through the images on Style.com, she was literally moved to tears. She turned to look at me and said "I need to find a new profession, because there is no way I could ever make anything as gorgeous as this man". It really says something about a designer when his clothes, not only in person, but through pictures, can bring about such an emotional reaction. I wanted to share a few of my favorite detail shots from his S/S 2012 show. His typical black color palette was injected with chartreuse, cobalt, teal, and crimson, as well as even richer fabrics (his typical choice of leather and silk was upgraded through moments of jacquards and crocodile). It takes a lot to move me away from my neutral colors, but this was the most compelling proposition for color I have seen in a long long while. So I hope everyone enjoys, and maybe it will move you enough to explore his work further on your own. 

A calfskin vest twisting and turning into the most unusual and visually arresting shapes, folds open to reveal a hint of the crocodile facing. 

A snapshot of what makes his runways so special; the group of three models out at the same time, walking at a snails pace down the runway, hands in their pockets, clothes causally disheveled. It is so perfectly blasé.

What looks like a normal tailored jacket from the front, is anything but from the back. I have to stop and admire the way the chiffon connects at the shoulder then beautifully drapes and knots in the back. It almost begs the question "who thinks of that?!". 

The color and the print. Two things I would never use, but am certainly considering it now. Again it is the small details that make this so special; the pagoda shoulder toned down to the most perfect proportion to keep it modern, the shawl lapel with the most delicate roll line, and as if to make the material and garment seem not as precious, the sleeves scrunched and upturned to show off the lining. 

My favorite look for a few reasons - The monochromatic look comprised of subtly different shades. The fact that every piece is a different material, each with a unique texture (the sheen of the silk taffeta pants contrasts so perfectly with the suede vest). And the contrast between traditional and avant garde seen through the necklines; the classic revers on the lounge jacket compliments so perfectly the angular draped neckline of the suede vest. 

Top Looks of S/S 2012...

Alexander McQueen

This collection was spectacular from start to finish; light, feminine, and couture like craftsmanship.  After a few seasons now at the helm, you can really see how in tune to Alexander McQueen's vision Sarah Burton is. 

Ann Demeulemeester

My current fashion mood to a T, dark romantic bohemian, is just what Ann D. does best. The shapes and transparency were fresh and interesting, plus I just loved the styling through hair and makeup.  

Celine

Not one of my favorite collections this season, but this look was a knockout and stayed in my mind. A crisp white shirt and a superbly cut pair of trousers should be a uniform for anyone and everyone. 

Damir Doma

Relaxed and easy, this was one collection I wanted to steal and pile on myself. This metal embellished vest is a must have piece for my own closet. Luckily Damir does unisex rather well. 

Gareth Pugh

I've been having a bit of Gareth withdrawal in recent seasons where he went sans runway show and opting for video presentations with less than crazy styling. Of course, he is back to his theatrical self. These final few looks took my breath away with their almost liquid look from laying shiny and transparent fabric. Plus whats not to love about those Philip Treacy hats? 

Givenchy

Sporty, chic, and exotic skins for days. I'm sure I'll be trying to hunt down some stingray, eel, and shark leathers for my own projects. Plus can we just admire this shark skin blazer? 

Haider Ackermann

Best collection of the season in my opinion. Haider really has hit a stride, and this collection was just another stunner to add to his list. The way he thinks about shape and color makes him such an inspiration to my own work, and the things he can do with silk and leather is enough to bring a tear to my eye, and the eyes of many other industry people. 

Jil Sander

Crisp white shirts, haute couture shapes, and a little Picasso = another knock out collection by Raf Simons. Now that he says he is done with the couture theme from the last three seasons, I'll be eagerly awaiting to see what he has up his sleeve for Jil Sander. 

Maison Martin Margiela

This look is just one of the reasons why I love Margiela; One perfectly cut blazer vest, with a twist... a built in garment protector, the little ones that they have on all their hangers in the boutiques. 

Marni

Shape, color, texture. I've been having my Marni moment as of late, and after this show I'm wanting to explore more of what Consuelo Castiglioni has been doing at the quirky Italian House. 

Thierry Mugler

While the wearablity of the collection is basically limited to only the modelesque, I can give big props to Mugler for one thing; they have some of the most complex pattern cutting around. The construction and shapes are visually interesting, and provide some great inspiration for what you can do when drafting a pattern. 

Reed Krakoff

Reed really reminds me of a modern day Helmut Lang, his utilitarian clothes usually end up being the highlight of New York Fashion Week for me. As you can probably guess by now, I love metallic and transparent fabric layered, and when you do the metallic in my favorite type, that hematite/gunmetal, well, it makes one winning look in my opinion. 

Rick Owens

The accents of rust in Ricks latest collection were what took this otherwise average collection from him to another level. Rick is so consistent season to season, that without this little pop of color, I think it would have just blended in with so many of his other recent collections. 

The Row

It was chic, it was ethnic, it was minimal, and to top it off, the couture level embroidery and beadwork just brought the Olsen twins label to another level.