It was once said that Haider Ackermann makes women cry. I'd like to expand that to Haider Ackermann makes everyone cry. I would be lying if I said I didn't shed a tear at his S/S 2011 show, or got choked up at his F/W 2011 outing. To see Haider's work on the runway is a spectacular moment; the pace, the styling, the music, the clothes, everything works together in perfect harmony. Haider has said he puts all his heart and soul into each collection, that the show is all his emotion put out there. It is an interesting philosophy to design, to make clothes with such emotion, but for him it works so perfectly and you can feel the raw emotive quality each garment has. And while his shows in person are one thing, the way they photograph is something completely different. You can stop and look, examine the obsessive ways he makes leather and silk twist and turn into shapes so new, so original, that it you really can't argue that what he makes is art. And while the wearability of his designs is debatable, there is no question that what he creates is some of the most consistently aesthetically pleasing work being made in fashion today. I introduced a close friend of mine to his clothes after the last F/W show. She is an enigma to me, the only person in the industry I know that truly knows nothing of what else is going on in fashion. While browsing through the images on Style.com, she was literally moved to tears. She turned to look at me and said "I need to find a new profession, because there is no way I could ever make anything as gorgeous as this man". It really says something about a designer when his clothes, not only in person, but through pictures, can bring about such an emotional reaction. I wanted to share a few of my favorite detail shots from his S/S 2012 show. His typical black color palette was injected with chartreuse, cobalt, teal, and crimson, as well as even richer fabrics (his typical choice of leather and silk was upgraded through moments of jacquards and crocodile). It takes a lot to move me away from my neutral colors, but this was the most compelling proposition for color I have seen in a long long while. So I hope everyone enjoys, and maybe it will move you enough to explore his work further on your own.
A calfskin vest twisting and turning into the most unusual and visually arresting shapes, folds open to reveal a hint of the crocodile facing.
A snapshot of what makes his runways so special; the group of three models out at the same time, walking at a snails pace down the runway, hands in their pockets, clothes causally disheveled. It is so perfectly blasé.
What looks like a normal tailored jacket from the front, is anything but from the back. I have to stop and admire the way the chiffon connects at the shoulder then beautifully drapes and knots in the back. It almost begs the question "who thinks of that?!".
The color and the print. Two things I would never use, but am certainly considering it now. Again it is the small details that make this so special; the pagoda shoulder toned down to the most perfect proportion to keep it modern, the shawl lapel with the most delicate roll line, and as if to make the material and garment seem not as precious, the sleeves scrunched and upturned to show off the lining.
My favorite look for a few reasons - The monochromatic look comprised of subtly different shades. The fact that every piece is a different material, each with a unique texture (the sheen of the silk taffeta pants contrasts so perfectly with the suede vest). And the contrast between traditional and avant garde seen through the necklines; the classic revers on the lounge jacket compliments so perfectly the angular draped neckline of the suede vest.
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