Monday, May 31, 2010

Missoni Resort...

For the new resort collection, Angela Missoni looked to Africa and the 60's as inspiration. Funny, considering that my first thought was YSL's 1967 African collection. It is amazing how so many creative people look to "exotic" cultures for inspiration in their work. You have Picasso with tribal masks, YSL and his various ethnic-centric collections, Coco Chanel and Chinese Lacquer, John Galliano and his Asian collections, as well as Dries Van Noten's sample of world cultures. I think a lot of this exploration comes from the remoteness of these cultures to western audiences, and their bold use of color, pattern, and texture. What about fashions obsession with people from these far off places? Take the up and coming fashion darling Hakaan. For years now he has been showing in his native Turkey, until this past season when he was in London. His past collections are not too remarkable, and his new one was filled with hits and misses. So why then is he gaining the praises of Kate Moss and Carine Roitfeld, as well as top models Anja Rubik, Lara Stone, and Mariacarla Boscono? Could it be that unexplainable draw to non-western cultures that is at play? As for Missoni Resort, I found it refreshing; a nice alternative to the waxing trend of 70's minimal, and the waning trend of 80's glam. I for one will be excited to see the accessories up close and personal.

Saturday, May 29, 2010

$hut This Girl Down...

Where do you even begin with this? The poor choice of footwear? The unflattering leather leggings? A hot mess of a jacket? The overexposure of bra? The neo-Native American headpiece? Seriously, stylists are around for a reason! Please, Ke$ha, for the love of your nonexistent fans, GO AWAY! All you do is cause distress for my eyes and ears. 


Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Musical Chairs...

Fashion is notorious for playing this game with creative directors. The fact that so many brands are now owned by large luxury conglomerates doesn't help much either in the department of job stability for head designers. Today, the music played (It seemed like every hour I got a update on my phone about some new job appointment), then stopped... The next two seasons of shows certainly will be more interesting. 

Olivier Theyskens at Theory
It is about time somebody got this boy on board. I've been having major Olivier withdrawals since he left Nina Ricci. Although, I'm wondering how someone with such a dark and victorian vision and a love for ruffles and feathers will take on a brand that does simple clothing. 
Nina Ricci F/W 2007, Nina Ricci F/W 2009

Giles Deacon at Ungaro
Can we please forget the sequin heart shaped nipple pasties collection by everyones favorite hot mess Lindsey Lohan, and move to a more appropriate partnership with Giles Deacon. I'm crossing my fingers that his flair and wit will be a perfect fit for Ungaro so the house can get out of design limbo. 6 designers in 10 seasons is not a good thing. 
Giles S/S 2009, LiLo for Ungaro S/S 2010

Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen
I was hopping this spot would go to Olivier Theyskens, he has the romance and theatricality that was so fundamental to the McQueen brand, but Sarah Burton makes a good choice too. One of his closest friends and design assistant for 14 years, she has the experience and knowledge to maintain Lee's vision. I'm have the feeling though that PPR wants the brand to move in a more commercial direction. 

Alessandro Dell'Acqua at Brioni
My mom wanted me to get a cashmere Brioni sweater a few weeks ago. It was an XL... I am not. Other than that I don't have too much to say about this since Brioni was never really on my fashion week radar, although I guess I will have to make room for it now. 

Christophe Lemaire at Hermes
There have been two swirling rumors in fashion for a while now. Jean-Paul Gaultier leaving Hermes, and Karl Lagerfeld leaving Chanel to be replaced by Alber Elbaz who would then leave Lanvin. Thankfully this one happened over the other one. I like Karl and Alber right where they are thank you very much. I like to think of this partnership as the anti-Olivier/Theory. Olivier went from the luxury brands Rochas and Nina Ricci to the contemporary Theory brand. Christophe on the other hand is going from High-end brand Lacoste to super luxury brand Hermes. Christophe, in case you didn't know, is the reason Lacoste has made its huge comeback in the past few years (it was in a rut since its 80's heydays). I'll be excited to see him continue with his sportswear just sub the Lacoste cotton pique and linen for the Hermes alligator and calf skin. 
JPG for Hermes S/S 2008, Lemaire for Lacoste F/W 2010

Images from Style.com

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Memories and Stuff Part 1...

Some people, when they travel, love to buy little souvenirs, be it thimbles, spoons, keychains, or other little objects displaying the name and a picture of the location they went to. For me, I will have none of that! When I travel I love to do what I do best, which should come as no surprise, shop. For me, souvenirs come in the form of clothing, shoes, accessories, and the things used to contain them. 
I don't even need to buy locally made items. Be it Lacoste in St. Maarten, Prada in Chicago, or  Hermes in Paris, each purchase stays in my mind forever. I have the horrible hoarding habit of saving all the boxes, bows, and bags that come with these items in one rather large box from gilt (it used to be a box from my first pair of Ugg boots [HEY, they are really comfortable!] but I eventually out grew that). This box weighs a good 20 lbs and contains all the bags, boxes, certificates of authenticity, receipts, tags, and lookbooks collected on my travels. Each type of item is put in a separate place for easy access. 
This box is my biggest guilty pleasure, and something that I cherish so much. I open it up every few months to put in newly acquired tags and spare buttons from recent purchases, and each time I spend some time looking through everything in there. I have stories for everything in that box. An Hermes S/S 2005 Lookbook brings back memories of me and my best friend Hannah on our trip to California. We spent hours in LAX playing "guess the price" with all the items in it. The feeling of awe when I first saw their saddles, one in particular which was painted with Koi fish that looked like old Japanese relief prints. Then there was my first big purchase when me and my other best friend Jenny went to Chicago on senior skip day just to shop, we went to the Prada store and it was love at first sight. I bought a saffiano leather wallet without even looking at the price, it gave me a feeling that I will never forget, a sort of rush or high of walking into a store you can't afford on a Buffalo Wild Wings salary, pointing at an item and saying "I'll take that" in the most blase way possible. As if I did that every day. Balenciaga is like a Francis Bacon painting to me, an object of such amazing beauty that feels out of reach to me. Prada, on the other hand, is like a piece of my own work. It is like an old friend of mine, which I can look back upon with all sorts of good memories, and imagine all the good moments to come. Some brands are on pedestals, and others are more down to earth. That Chicago trip in the spring of 2007 kicked off an amazing friendship between me and Prada, which has since amassed a large amount of lookbooks, catalogs (which they send me twice a year, with the most ornate packaging and envelope), clothing, and my personal weakness; the trick keychains and cell phone charms. 

Memories and Stuff Part 2...

Hehe, I'm surprised I didn't mention this earlier, like the moment when I got back from my quick trip to Paris but...
In between trying on the runways glasses (add the neon green pair to that need list [I was going to buy them there but all those art museums sucked up my money, I'm talking to you Lucien Freud exhibit at the Pompidou Center, and murder/torture in art exhibit at the Musee d'Orsay]), I managed to get my hands on the S/S 2010 lookbook! It seems to be somewhat of a collectors item seeing as they only had the one copy, and it is causing a huge buzz on the internet. Let me just get it out there... it is as good as everyone says it is.
Every page pushes the photography and clothing to a new level. Clothing patterns are distorted into new patterns, blending the line between the clothes and the background. What was once the print to the shirts is now used as a backdrop to show off the chandelier shoes (above). The styling was absolutely perfect, from the hair and lipstick right down to those supper amazing and anti-practical plastic toe nails (also above). 
The mens side of things didn't disappoint either. Muccia's vision was flawlessly transferred from runway to lookbook to art movie. Perhaps that is why I love Prada so much, because Muccia does such a great job of merging fashion and art. You see it everywhere in the brand; Fondazione Prada giving grants and exposure to emerging artists, all star architects designing the stores, and artist collaborations with the clothing, films, and lookbooks. While it is nothing new for designers to branch out into other forms of art (Helmut Lang does sculpture, Hedi Slimane and photography, Rich Owens creates furniture, and Italian mega personas Donatella Versace and Giorgio Armani dabble in hotels) none do it on such a grand and influential scale as Muccia. 

The lookbook sat on my bed stand for the past few months, but now it will reside in my box of memories. It gives me something new to look forward too when the times comes every now and then to pull out the box and rummage through its contents. So, question time! What types of things do you collect on your travels and how do you draw upon those travel memories?

... and What, is your favorite color? *spoken like the bridge keeper in Monty Python and the Holy Grail* For some reason question time made me think of that, and as a result, gave me a hearty laugh. 

Needs vs. Wants...

This gets put in the need folder.
Prada's new B.Y.O.Bags. They come in all the great prints from the Prada archive. I'm a huge fan of tote bags, and these ones are no exception. By the looks of them on the Prada website, they seem pretty roomy too. Nothing would be better to shove all my art supplies in while rushing to class on the busy streets of Paris. Plus at 200 euro, you get an inexpensive piece of Prada. I've been wanting a nice saffiano leather bag to match my wallet, but I think one of these would do just fine. 
As much as I love the printed bags, the canvas ones are just as dreamy. You can check them all out here... as for me I think a trip to the Chicago Prada store is in order when I go to pick up my visa. 

Monday, May 24, 2010

Neon Part Deux...

This collection is slowly becoming one of my favorites. I was a bit skeptical when it was first shown because it was such a departure from the traditional Valentino style. Once again the look is on another level off the runway. The always flawless SJP fills out the dress so much better than Elsa Sylvan did in the show. 
I'm telling ya, take away the makeup and the harsh lighting, and the dresses are actually stunning. I'm still up in the air though on the odd suits from the collection though, but I'll sure be interested in seeing who manages to change my mind on those... Charlotte Gainsbourg anyone? 

Gucci Galore...

I think the title of this post sums up this years Cannes Film Festival perfectly. While there were some stunners like Kate Blanchett in McQueen P/F 2010, hand picked for her by the designer before his death, the big reveal of Gucci Premiere stole the show. 
Salma Hayek got to debut Gucci's new line of couture gowns, which comes to no surprise seeing as she is married to the president of PPR.
Kate Beckinsale's dress would have been my favorite of the festival had it not been that slightly obnoxious bow in the middle. If you ask me, it competes too much with the belted waist. 

Halston Men...

When I heard that Halston was launching a mens line I didn't really know what to expect. I won't lie, I'm not very knowledgeable about the 1970's New York fashion (70's Paris fashion is a different story) and therefore am not to familiar with the brands heritage or Roy Halston himself. Judging by the preview that WWD had of the line, which was said to be influence by what the designer himself wore out to the clubs, this Halston mens line is not going to be pushing any fashion boundaries. It is hard to imagine a young and modern client wanting to wear double breasted jackets and turtlenecks, which were represented in a multitude of colors and materials. Their choice of model for the look book I think reinforces that idea. 

Sunday, May 23, 2010

Neon..

Dree Hemingway in Valentino Couture at amfAR's Cinema Against Aids Gala.
I must say I like the spring couture collection much more off the runway. Once you take away the funky makeup and crazy hair the clothes actually turn out to be rather refreshing. Although I would make the neon draping a little shorter so that Dree wouldn't be stepping on it. No one wants dirty couture. 
I'm still in love with the little ribbon veil things though, just not with these outfits. 

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Bang...

I haven't been really in the mood for long posts lately, so I'm just going to make things short and sweet. Marc Jacobs is launching his first Mens fragrance in over 10 years this July. 
The bottle is really promising and I am kinda in love with the design of it. It reminds me of Herzog & de Meuron's architecture. 
Not really feeling the advertising though. It's to Tom Ford/Terry Richardson-esque. While I love the old Gucci ads those two did, they are too early 2000's. As for Terry, I must say I am disgusted by the allegations against him and that so many in the industry are sticking up for him. That whole issue around him just makes me want to burn my collection of V magazines since he is in just about every single issue. 

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Black Beauty...

So I had a major catastrophe this week. My Macbook's hard drive died.... and... don't scold me... but I never backed it up. So, bye bye all those posts about my trip to Paris in March since I no longer have any pictures from it. Good thing I am going back in less than 100 days. 

Anyways, when it comes to shoes, my devotion to the house of Balenciaga is broken. Yves Saint Laurent takes the cake for the best shoes. If you ask me, the YSL Tribute ankle boots from the F/W 2008 collection are the greatest shoes ever created. 
Big thanks to Tommy Ton for shooting the best picture of them too. Actually, that whole F/W 2008 collection is one of my favorites of all time (I've been trying to add those runway sunglasses to my collection for years to no avail), and one of Stefano Pilati's greatest at the house. I like to think of it as a minimalists manifesto, a constant influence for anything I do artistically. You can check it out here.

Back to what this post was originally about. I can get side tracked rather easily you know. I was reading W magazine and was reminded of the amazing YSL shoes from the F/W 2010 collection. 
Talk about some fierce footwear! I can just see them with some amazing Trussardi 1911 dress. I'd like to think of it as some cultural appropriated version of neo-Native American style. You know, something so over the top and fabulous that only Carrie Bradshaw or Anna Dello Russo could get away with wearing it. And speaking of ADR, if I don't see her wearing these during the fall fashion circuit, I will be seriously disappointed. I always think of two different things when I see these a) the mane of a horse, and b) a liberty spike mohawk. Apart from the heel of hair, I'm also really feeling that slight curve of the platform. It helps keep the shoe visually interesting when they go into production sans hair. I'm assuming this is what they will be doing seeing as that type was also shown on the runway, and would make for a more commercial product. 

Monday, May 17, 2010

Dior a la Galliano...

In the words of the ever insightful Mademoiselle Agnes; There's going to be beige. There's going to be panties. There's going to be transparency. 
She may have said that for the S/S 2010 season, but I think it applies to every season, even Fall Couture/2011 Cruise. Nuf said. 

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Remember Now...

Don't you hate when something is so hyped up and you get super excited to the point of almost wetting your pants, then you are left in a state of devastating disappointment because this thing was not as good as expected. This happens to me all the time with movies and books, but Chanel Cruise 2011 takes the cake. Kaiser Karl made a little movie called Remember Now which you can view by clicking the link. It's like 16 minutes of super skinny super model partying bliss! I mean, can we just stare, drooling at Magdalena Frackowiak, Karolina Kurkova, Freja Beha Erichsen, and fashion DJ extraordinaire Leigh Lezark?! And the whole movie is about my favorite pastime other than fashion, partying! Seriously, there is nothing I love more than going to a club, dancing till dawn, hitting up an after party to watch the sunrise, and then starting up a day like nothing happened. Maybe a trip to Saint Tropez is in order for me this year to live this movie out in person. Now, Karl usually uses a good deal of the upcoming Chanel collection in his little movies, much like the Shanghai one. This is where the excitement came in. For the past week I'm thinking short short short party dresses, modern and sexy, blinged out to the max, and NOT like Balmain. Don't get me wrong, I love me some Balmain, good trashy club wear, but the idea of Karl doing club wear a la Chanel was almost too good. Actually, it was too good, CUZ HE DIDN'T DO IT! The whole show was straight up YSL 70's, not his amazing 1940's collection, but his Peasant collection. Karl hardly even modernized anything like he does so well. Where was the modernity?! Just because it is Chanel, does not make rust colored suede flares ok. This is a collection I would like to erase from my mind, instead let's remember now the magical Chanel Cruise 2010 show...
Ahhh... much better. 

Sunday, May 9, 2010

Yarn Art...

Remind me never to get into PR and do event promotions. Even when it comes to my own work being shown, I tell no one until it is too late, like this...
My fancy yarn graffiti show which has been on display for the past few weeks and wraps up today. I have this weird fascination with knitting and crocheting doilies, which is where I got my inspiration for this piece. Something about them is so frivolous and ornate that I just love them to death. Doilies were originally created to protect fine wood from scratches, but if you ask me, a lacy, hole ridden piece of cotton is not the most effective means of doing so. 
Something about spring time, my love of all things lacy and round, the color green, and a pressing deadline to get something knitted while dealing with school work, lead to me randomly knitting in a circle and hope for the best. I didn't even do any measuring for the building it was being installed on! Call it luck, but it found a perfect home right next to some greenery, transforming my humble doily into some extravagant neon spider web. 
I think it is quite handsome no?

Friday, May 7, 2010

Skip Summer, Lets Just Head Into Fall...

Seriously, just as I start to get excited for the season we are in... BAM! something like the fall ad for Givenchy comes out and gets my mouth watering for all the beautiful camel and black everything off the runway.  This steamy shoot hit all the right notes with the always amazing Mariacarla Boscono, Simon Nessman, Paolo Rolden, and Catherine McNeil. Then there is the unexpected casting of Lea T, who was his former assistant and fit model at Givenchy, and a transexual. I just wish they could find a way to squeeze Liu Wen and Emil Dostovic in there. 
I really like that they are continuing the same format from last season, I think it is a really effective way to fit as many clothes and models (both new and of the super- variety) into a very simple advertisement.  Plus the constant androgyny makes me just want everything, and not just the stuff on the guys. Camel coat on Malgosia Bela, I'm coming for you when I get back to Paris. You too bibbed tuxedo shirt! 

Thursday, May 6, 2010

At The MET...

Of course fashions equivalent of the Oscars happens during finals week. Now everything is all good, so I can find the time to do more frequent posts... like this one that should have happened the day after...

From top left to bottom right: Zoe Saldana, Francisco Costa and Diane Kruger all in Calvin Klein Collection. Gisele Bundchen in custom Alexander Wang with Tom Brady. January Jones and Stefano Pilati in Yves Saint Laurent. Emma Watson and Christopher Bailey in Burberry Prorsum.
I am sure I am not the only person wishing that I was Francisco Costa in that Picture. As if Zoe and Diane are not dreamy enough, you go and stick them in those gowns and it is like a fashion fantasy. Now I don't think that Gisele can ever top that 2008 Atelier Versace gown, but this custom made Wang sure comes close. Next we have Stefano Pilati, looking dapper as ever and getting my best dressed male award, with the amazing January Jones. If I could have one complaint about fashion today it is that we have lost so much of our elegance. It is those little details like the watch chain on the vest and the long satin gloves that finish off a look perfectly. Finally in my top four we have the grungy punk brits; Emma and Christopher. I don't recall Christopher ever looking this skinny before, so props to him for that. I know I just said I love how chic the YSL clan was looking, but there is a place also for some casual glamour, and these two pull it off perfectly. 

Liu Wen in Naeem Khan, John Demsey, Constance Jablonski in Jason Wu. Charlotte Gainsbourg and Nicolas Ghesquiere in Balenciaga. Vera Wang and Mila Kunis in Vera Wang. Sasha Pivovarova, Sean Lennon, and Kemp Muhl all in Marni.  
Of course the Gala is never complete without a little model magic (sorry Gisele but I'm not counting you), cue the super stunning power duo of Liu and Constance! While a lot of dresses and gowns were heading south, theirs climbed to new heights, giving us legs for days. Thanks girls! Ah Nicolas and Charlotte, you cheeky little devils. I can't for the life of me figure out where her Balencaiga dress comes from, he hasn't shown anything remotely similar since F/W 2009, ages ago in fashion terms, and showing up in one of those dresses would be a fashion disaster. Her shoes are clearly F/W 2010, but the dress is nothing like that collection. This leaves two possibilities; Balenciaga Edition, or super secret special gift from one bff to another. I'm leaning to the latter since the great Cristobal never did anything like that. Vera gets my props for looking like she is 20, and having the best blow out ever. Her hair stylist must have worked hours teasing and blowing that hair into an amazing volumous mass of hair. My last pick for best dressed goes to the coolest kids in town. Sasha, Sean and Kemp are the best people to rep the brand and make me want to run to the store and join the Marni Tribe. 

Tina Fey in Yves Saint Laurent. Laura and Kate Mulleavy with Kirsten Dunst in Rodarte. Keren Craig, Georgina Chapman, and Eva Longoria Parker all in Marchesa. Doutzen Kroes and Zac Posen in Zac Posen. 
Now the worst... Tina Fey I'm talking to you. Seriously though, if you have a stylist or not, you can't possibly leave the house so many times looking like a hot mess, or in this case, a hot mess in a jump suit. Stefano is probably hiding a 10 ft pole in this tuxedo to keep her YSL disaster from rubbing off on him and January. As for the ladies behind Rodarte and their famous friends, I'm starting to loose hope in the brand. Maybe it was the New York equivalent of Balmain, too pricy and too recognizable. This past collection didn't show very well either, and like Balmain, each collection looks like the last one. I know you girls don't like to go to parties, but please, try to at least look like you are having fun. And now for Eva Longoria Parker and her dress that is a) not long enough, or short enough and b) has too long of a train. Also when standing next to Georgina Chapman, I suggest wearing 8 inch platforms. Finally we cap off the worst dressed with curvy girl darling, who surprisingly did not go with something Vuitton or Prada, which she rocks, but instead goes with an enormous blue mass. Zac, Joann's called, they want their tulle back. 

Andre Leon Talley and Whoppi Goldberg in custom Chado Ralph Rucci.
My honorable mention in the best dressed category goes to Mr. Talley and Whoppi Goldberg. No one wears a cape like ALT. 

Saturday, May 1, 2010

Calvin...


So, I think I kinda like what was going on at the Calvin Klein presentation, and the beautiful pictures via models. I swear their photography makes everything look better than it really is.  


Especially the mens outfit on the right. I have really been liking longer coats lately, the proportions feel nice, especially because I am a tall person. I was recently gifted a Donna Karan deconstructed trench coat that is minimal to the max and totally reminds me of the Jil Sander S/S 2010 collection. It is really basic (it doesn't even have back vents!) and all the edges are frayed. I don't know what that story has to do with this post except that I like black thigh length coats. A nice wool topcoat will have to be on my list of clothes I need to survive the winter in Paris. Also, remind me I need to try the uber slicked down hair sometime. I have a fancy dinner on Wednesday, maybe I will do some channeling of this presentation and do slicked down hair and even slicker black minimal clothing. 

Models.com
WWD's image of the same look...

Seriously though, photography is just as important as the clothes. Models photo makes me want those clothes, and WWD one makes me want to move on to something better. Just saying...