Friday, June 18, 2010

Let's Talk About Raf...

... at Jil...
There was a lot of hype about Raf Simons latest collection for Jil Sander, and it was well deserved. As the light dimmed and the 80's techno blarred you knew you were in for a treat. Every look, with the exception of a few black suits (no Jil Sander show is complete without them) was packed full of color. Raf had said he was looking to nature this time around, which explained the floral motifs used, garden setting, and color palette that comes from only the brightest flowers. The fluoro colors were not just limited to the clothes though; the bottoms of the shoes were made in colors that matched the outfits being worn. It was like the menswear equivalent of the YSL F/W 2008 Tributes. It was a refreshing touch that makes the shoes stand out in a good way, something difficult to do in a part of the fashion world not keen on risks. Of course Raf Simons is not one to play it safe. While hemlines on the women's scene are lowering to the floor, men's are slowly creeping up, and Raf took them to uncharted territory. Worn with jumpers and t-shirts, they provided a sliver of color: worn with blazers, they were not visible. Other notable aspects of the show were reflective tape trim used on suits, again, that unexpected detail that makes Raf's clothes stand out. A small variety of prints (floral and stripped) were also notable, as prints of any type are a somewhat foreign concept to the Jil Sander brand. Raf has been talking a lot as of late about the future of Jil Sander. With the hard job of taking on a brand after it's namesake, Raf has certainly moved it away from its stark minimalism roots, and given  the next designer a lot more to work with. Lets just hope that next designer doesn't come any time soon. 

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