Mary Katrantzou
I've been slightly fascinated with Mary's work since she graduated from Central Saint Martins, and judging by the fact that her digital dresses were featured on Ugly Betty, I'd say she is doing pretty well for herself. London is really becoming a mecca for digital printing, and Mary is right there on the forefront creating some of the best prints. This season focused on Rococo artwork, a far cry from the 90's minimalism that is running rampant through fashion week. The results of her labour created some truly beautiful pieces that gave a slight nod to Gianni Versace (perhaps she was looking to a different part of the 90's). I think a few of these will find a happy home in the closet of Anna Dello Russo.
Pringle of Scotland
Clare Waight Keller has one of the hardest jobs in the design industry if you ask me. Each season she must take the 190 year history of the Pringle brand, and move it forward. Each season she also moves forward in a flawless manner, avoiding all cliched images of fair isle, argyle, and fisherman sweaters. The paneled skirts reminded me of gladiatorial F/W 2009 Prada show, just sub Prada's studded leather with Clare's woven cashmere mesh.
Shao-Yen Chen
The Central Saint Martin's MA Graduate show (hopefully I will be in it one day, considering I want to get my MA in fashion design) is always great to look at because it is a look into the future of what fashion design will be. This year, there was a disregard for the body, and the proportions and volumes of the clothes ran wild. Shao-Yen Chen piled on the yarn into some fantastical shapes, which was a pleasure to look at. I will be excited to see where she goes after this.
Todd Lynn
Hunter gatherers and climate change for inspiration? Ok, but only as long as there is fur involved. This show hit all the right notes for me; minimal design, fur, leather, combat sneakers, fur, draping, and did I say fur? Oh, I did? Did I mention the fox fur caplets? No? Well let me tell you about them. I just finished transferring my clothes from one closet to another, and I felt like something was missing. My feeling is that is that the void could easily be filled with some sort of pagoda shoulder fox fur (upper right). just a feeling. I mean, all those bunnies, sheep, cows, and raccoons must be feeling really lonely in my closet, perhaps a fox could spice things up a bit?
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