Friday, January 22, 2010

Paris Menswear: Day 2

I thought it would be fun to write my usual commentary, but add what my 12 year old sister has to say about the clothes. So here is the first entry with our special guest writer Hannah.



Comme des Garcons


Hannah: I hate the pink shoes, and the color doesn't match the blue. It (the pink and blue) reminds me of Marie Antoinette, and I don't like her very much.


Erik: Rei Kawakubo is one of the great thinkers of our time, and a true designers designer. Every season I look forward to what she has to show because she really pushes the boundaries of fashion. This season included floor length fur jackets (in this case faux) which were seen on many other runways. This bear fur was added as trim to dress shirts and hoods sans jackets. The vests that were layered under jackets featured heavy duty plastic buckles adding a real sense of protection to the clothes. At the end of the show I'm left thinking about shelter for the urban man; neolithic furs and bullet proof styled vests seem like a great way to keep safe from the elements.



Givenchy


Hannah: I don't like the shoes on any of them, and I really don't like the tights.  The necklace is nice, its religious, and I like that the clothes don't have a lot of detail.


Erik: Riccardo Tisci is doing his job right, because I want every single thing from this collection. I've said it before and I'll say it again; sign me up for any religion involving Riccardo's interpretation of Spanish Catholics. The crown of thorn necklaces were the perfect accessory for the sleek clothing. I would do just about anything to get my hands on one, and if I did, I can assure anyone that I would not take it off. And the shoes! Oh the shoes! Remember that post about the perfect sandal? Add these ones on my list right next to the spring/summer Givenchy sandals. The slim trousers and crisp white shirts seemed to be immaculately tailored. Riccardo seems to be making a signature look of the tights under shorts look, which I have no problem with.



John Galliano


Hannah: I don't like any of it, they all look like wrestlers, ew. Nobody would wear that in the regular world. You would never see anyone walk down the street in that. You don't know what the designers style is because it is just a hodge podge of weird stuff.


Erik: Galliano always pulls from a million different inspiration sources, and he didn't let us down this time. What started out as a rugged Sherlock Holms quickly turned to corseted men. I instantly thought of the amazing corsetier Mr. Pearl, and those iconic images of him in corsets. Then as quickly as the corsets came, they went, and out came another trend of the fall runways; blood. The underwear models were covered in blood and bones and not much else, but that is sort of a staple of a Galliano mens show. To end the show, Galliano referenced the far East with shoes, hats, and hair, then in a burst of flames, the man behind it all strutted out to take his bow. All I can do is thank Mr. Galliano for giving the world a great cliched image of a fashion show.



Kris Van Assche


Hannah: Umm... Umm... ew, don't like any of it. It just looks odd, like there is too much stuff on one person. Some of it is baggy, and some is tight, I don't like how they mix that.


Erik: Lets hope these baggy clothes stay at Van Assche, because I certainly don't want them to be showing up tomorrow at Dior Homme! I'm sure I will be left in a bad mood after whatever travesty Kris does, but we will leave that for tomorrow. As for his own line, It was expected and played very safe. Of course there were two items that I did like; the slouchy knit hat, and the uber low v-neck sweater (upper right). As I always say, the lower the neck the better, and this was about as low as you can get without not wearing a shirt at all.



Rick Owens


Hannah: I like the boots, but not the fur. I don't like how long everything is. The models look stiff, I don't know if that is how they are supposed to be, but their hair looks stiff, you know?


Erik: Rick Owens; either you love him or you hate him, but you have to give him credit for consistently pushing his unconventional aesthetic upon the world. I will be running off the plane in Paris straight to his boutique, guess what camp that puts me in? There is a term that I think fits his aesthetic to a t; post-apocalyptic. Every season, I get a feeling of that his clothes are the future, without the typical cliches that one would usually think of. I'm sure you all know I love fur, so I won't even get started (I'm sure you can imagine what I would say). I think were this collection really shined was with the updates to the classic Rick Owens pieces. First you had the blistered lamb jackets, this time with fur trim. Then there was the elongated shirts, but instead of a sheer cotton, was done in a chunky knit. And finally we have the amazing stacked heel boots done up in exotic leathers. The boots are one of my favorite pieces of mens footwear, the shape is so dynamic and looks like some amazing Brancusi sculpture.



Rick Owens Details


Hannah: I like the snakeskin. I really cannot stand the gloves, they remind me of hobos but they look warm. I don't like the colors together, bleh.


Erik: Commence drooling over the accessories.



Tim Hamilton


Hannah: That guy looks like a ninja. I don't like the sweaters, but I like the shirt under it. I don't like the shape of the clothes, or the leather pants. I do like the colors, it's simply manifique!


Erik: Berlin underground techno scene meets American sportswear. I approve, nuf said.





Yves Saint Laurent


Hannah: I like this one! I like the pants, they look like regular pants, like business pants. I don't like that coat (upper right).  I can't stand the coat.


Erik: Stefano Pilati seems to be a match made for YSL. He always has such a causal ease to his clothes that just scream Paris's Rive Gauche. His volumous pants can make a welcome appearance in my wardrobe any day. I particularly liked the long, cinched waist dress shirts; they created such interesting proportions in the silhouette.

No comments:

Post a Comment